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Totally Bazaar |
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wish I hadn't bought the first pair of shoes I liked the look of. A funky
pair of trainers in cool brown suede.
The shopkeeper wanted 69 million for them. But I wasn't completely sure.
Then he knocked 15 off, so I could hardly say no. At today's prices, 54
million Turkish Lira is about £20. So I bought them and walked out of the
shop and down the road. And then I found all the other shoe shops. There was
a whole courtyard stuffed with footwear, and streets either side as well.
Shoe heaven. And it made the pair I'd just bought look expensive. Within
minutes I was trying on pair after pair, talking about London to the
friendly shop keeper who had lived there for a couple of years, and
accepting his offer of a cup of apple tea. I had two more pairs in my bag
before I had time to think. These cost around £12 a pair. I felt slightly
light-headed. I'm a guy for God's sake, - I don't DO shopping. I've decided
it's a price-value kind of drive. When stuff this nice is this cheap, even
the most shopaphobic of people start reaching for their wallet with a grin.
Now, I know what you're thinking. Get them home, put the shoes on and I'll
realise that the leather is actually plastic, the stitching won't last and
the first spot of rain will get my feet soaked. Well, you'd be wrong. The
quality and style is perfect. Three pairs of cool trainers for just £44.
Sorted.
Hmm. Now what? I had two days in Istanbul. - I had tourism to fit in
alongside the trainers and the tea. No time to lose. My next hunting ground
was the famous grand bazaar. And hunting is a good way to describe the
experience. Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, Kapali Carsi, has over 4000 shops, 66
streets, a mosque, a post office and a police station.
There are bargains to be had here but you have to keep cool, hold your nerve
and haggle as if your life depended on it. It can be great fun. The Turkish
stallholders are generally friendly, relaxed and keen to get a deal. There's
stacks of junk here, too. Fake Tintin T-shirts, stuffed camels, the works.
But wander further into the bazaar's shady alleys and you'll find far more.
Are the Moschino and Prada shoes and shirts real?
I argued about this with a couple I met in my hotel. They were adamant that
they are genuine. I settled for Levi's and Diesel jeans - again for around
£12 a pair. If you're in the mood for carpets and leatherware, the bazaar is
perfect. But again, work out how much you want to spend and stick to it if
you can - otherwise you'll find you're blowing bucks like confetti on a
windy day.
I'd read about a couple of other areas that were ripe for harvest. Wander
out of the east end of the Grand Bazaar, and you'll find yourself in a maze
of small streets crammed with shops and stalls selling everything from hose
pipes to hosiery. Watch your back, your feet and your pockets -as it's minor
mayhem here. People cannot pass, pushing huge trolleys of stuff piled high,
little old ladies step right out in front of you.
This is the perfect introduction to life in Istanbul, and it's fascinating.
Your destination is the Spice Bazaar (Misir Carsisi) and you need to follow
your nose downhill and keep your fingers crossed a little to find it. It's
another lovely old covered building. At the right time of day, golden rays
of sunlight bounce through the high-level windows, illuminating an
atmosphere clogged with dust and cigarette smoke. Don't buy spices in here,
try the smaller stalls in the side streets all around.
And finally, before my legs gave out, I jumped in a taxi (£3 gets you pretty
much anywhere in the town centre) and headed for the more European quarter
of Taksim.
If you want brand names at reasonable prices, then the main street here
-Istikal Cad - is perfect. But I foraged a little further into the
department stores and arcades. And found exactly what I was looking for.
Turkey manufactures clothes for all manner of large Western chains, and any
seconds get sold here for next to nothing. Trekoz Cikmaz is a small side
street with large tables piled high with T-shirts and sweats.
I was buying cool T-shirts with abandon for around £1 a piece. More Moschino
tops for £4, stacks of jeans and skirts. Opposite are a couple of arcades
which go several stories underground, and they're crammed with stalls. From
George at Asda to Kangol to Levi's to Fishbone - it's eclectic and slightly
addictive shopping.
I spent around £150 on shoes, jeans, a jean jacket, a fab Levi's corduroy
jacket with fleecy lining (trust me!), 10 pairs of socks, seven pairs of
boxer shorts, 12 T-shirts and a couple of sweatshirts. Not bad. Now, how the
hell was I going to fit all that lot into my suitcase?
Jeremy Head travelled around Turkey on Fez Travel's Magic Carpet Tour.
Jeremy Head is a freelance travel writer. A member of the British Guild of
Travel Writers, his travel writing and photography is regularly published in
the UK's mainstream press (The Guardian and The Times) and specialist travel
publications. To read more of his work log on to www.jeremyhead.com
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